Getting up before the cock has crowed, loading up the car and hitting the empty road in quiet darkness. You get out of the car and put on your suit in the still morning air. You hear the sounds of waves pounding and can glimpse the moving white water, but that's about it. Rub on some wax, grab the board and run across the freezing sand. The water feels almost warm compared to sand and but you quickly change your mind as you experience that first brain freeze going under a wave. Soon you've made it out. You turn around while sitting on the board, just in time to see the sun peak over the sierra nevada's. Feels pretty good to be alive.
ps the photo is definitely not from the morning, it's a sunset, but you get the point...
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